French pins are replacing claw clips – a fine-hair favourite

The claw clip has dominated everything from post-Pilates hair to ‘model off-duty’ dressing for years. Now, a quieter, more refined tool is stepping into the spotlight: the French pin. If you have fine or slippery hair and you’ve ever watched your claw clip slowly migrate down the back of your head by lunchtime, you’ll understand the appeal immediately. A French pin is designed to create grip through technique rather than brute force, helping you build a secure twist that feels lighter, looks more polished, and can be surprisingly kind to delicate strands.

This shift isn’t about declaring the claw clip “over” so much as recognising that different hair types need different support. Many UK stylists already treat the French pin as a kit-bag essential for quick chignons, French twists, and the sort of effortless up-dos that look intentional rather than accidental. The good news: it’s easy to learn, and it’s one of the most practical styling changes you can make if you’re constantly chasing volume and hold without wanting to over-style.

What exactly is a French pin (and why fine hair loves it)?

A French pin is a single, elongated pin—often metal or acetate—used to secure twisted hair by weaving it through the up-do. Compared with a claw clip, which clamps hair between teeth and relies on tension and thickness to stay put, a French pin anchors an up-do by distributing pressure across the twist. For fine hair types, that difference matters.

Why it can work brilliantly on fine hair:

• Less bulk needed: Fine hair can feel “too small” for many medium-to-large claw clips. Pins don’t require the same volume to achieve stability.
• More even tension: Rather than compressing one area, the pin helps hold the full twist, which can feel more comfortable for all-day wear.
• Cleaner silhouette: A French pin tends to sit flatter against the head, giving a more elevated finish—useful for work, events, or whenever you want a ‘put-together’ look.
• Customisable hold: The security comes from how you weave it, so you can adjust for looser, slightly messy texture or a sleeker, tighter twist.

That said, fine hair isn’t one-size-fits-all. If your hair is very silky, freshly washed, or naturally straight, you may need a touch of prep (think texture spray or a light mist of hairspray brushed through) to help the twist “bite” before you pin it. Many stylists recommend styling day-two hair—or adding a little grit—because it tends to hold shapes more willingly than freshly blow-dried lengths.

French pin vs claw clip: the real difference is the technique

The claw clip’s strength is convenience: gather, clamp, go. It’s also great for certain textures and densities—particularly thicker hair that can fill the clip and create natural friction. But for fine hair, claw clips can present familiar frustrations: slipping, needing constant re-clamping, feeling tight at the scalp, or creating dents and creases that show up the moment you take the clip out.

A French pin asks for a few extra seconds of technique, but rewards you with a more stable shape. Because it’s anchored through the twist, it often holds better than you’d expect, even when the hair itself is light. It’s also easier to build asymmetry (a low, slightly off-centre bun) or a classic French twist that doesn’t look like you’ve simply “clipped it up”.

Real-world practicality: If you’re new to it, practise in front of a mirror twice—once at home, once before you leave the house. By the third attempt, most people find the motion becomes automatic and faster than re-clamping a slipping claw clip all day.

How to do a French pin twist on fine hair (easy, secure, and wearable)

The most wearable everyday style is a low twist that reads as effortless, but holds like a proper updo. Here’s a technique many session stylists use as a starting point, adapted for fine hair so you get grip without pulling.

• Step 1: Prep for hold. If hair is very clean or silky, mist a little texturising spray through mid-lengths and ends. Brush through lightly so it doesn’t feel sticky.
• Step 2: Gather at the nape. Use your hands rather than a brush if you want a softer finish. For sleeker results, smooth with a boar-bristle or mixed-bristle brush.
• Step 3: Create the twist. Twist the ponytail upwards (or inwards) until it starts to fold on itself. Keep the twist snug, but not scalp-tight.
• Step 4: Tuck the ends. Fold the ends into the twist to create a compact shape. Fine hair often benefits from a slightly tighter tuck so ends don’t escape.
• Step 5: Insert the French pin. Place the pin near the scalp at the top edge of the twist, then weave it down through the twist so it catches hair from both the twist and the base underneath.
• Step 6: Micro-adjust. Gently pull at the crown or sides to soften and add shape. If you want a more editorial look, leave a face-framing piece or two.

If your style loosens quickly, it’s usually one of two things: the twist is too loose, or the pin isn’t weaving through both the twist and the anchored hair at the scalp. Try a second attempt with a tighter twist, and angle the pin so it scoops a little hair from underneath before sliding through the up-do.

Fine-hair best practice: comfort, breakage and finishing touches

Fine hair can be strong, but it’s often more prone to visible breakage, especially around the hairline and crown where friction is common. Up-dos are generally a brilliant protective option in the day-to-day—keeping hair out of scarves, coats, and constant handling—but the way you secure them matters.

Stylist-approved habits that help:

• Avoid over-tight twisting: A secure up-do shouldn’t feel like a headache. If it does, unwind and redo it more gently.
• Vary your placement: Switching between low, mid, and slightly off-centre twists can reduce repeated stress on the same sections.
• Be mindful of edges: If you’re prone to flyaways, use a tiny amount of lightweight styling cream rather than piling on heavy oils that can flatten fine hair.
• Remove carefully: Slide the pin out along the same path it went in, then unwind—don’t yank. This helps minimise snagging.

For evenings or events, a French pin up-do pairs beautifully with a soft wave through the lengths first (even if you’re pinning most of it up). A little texture gives the twist a more “done” feel and can help the pin hold for longer. For daytime, keep it intentionally imperfect: a few wisps at the temples can stop the style looking severe, especially on fine hair.

Key Takeaways

• French pins secure hair by weaving through a twist, which can feel lighter and more stable than clamping with a claw clip.
• Fine hair often benefits from a touch of texture (especially on freshly washed hair) to improve grip and longevity.
• The most common reason a French pin “doesn’t work” is insertion: it must catch both the twist and hair near the scalp.
• Comfort matters—avoid overly tight tension and rotate where you place your up-do to reduce repeated stress.
• Try practising the motion twice at home; once the weave becomes muscle memory, it’s a quick daily style.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a French pin better than a claw clip for fine hair?
It can be, particularly if your claw clip slips or feels bulky. A French pin relies on the structure of the twist rather than hair thickness filling a clip, which many people with fine hair find more secure.

Will a French pin damage my hair?
Any accessory can cause breakage if it’s tight, snaggy, or removed roughly. Many stylists recommend smooth, well-finished pins and gentle removal (sliding it out along the insertion path) to reduce snagging.

Do I need hairspray or texture spray first?
Not always. But if your hair is very soft, clean, or slippery, a light texturising spray can help the twist hold. Use a small amount and brush through so it doesn’t feel gritty.

Why does my French pin up-do fall out?
Usually because the twist is loose or the pin isn’t woven through both the twist and the anchored base hair. Try making a firmer twist and insert the pin so it scoops a little hair at the scalp before passing through the twist.

Can I use a French pin on short fine hair?
It depends on length and layers. Many people can make it work from around chin-length if the hair can twist and tuck. For very layered cuts, you may need a couple of discreet grips to support shorter pieces.