How to Create Hollywood Waves at Home, According to Pro Stylists

Hollywood waves are the red-carpet signature that never really leaves fashion: glossy, sculpted, and softly dramatic, with those unmistakable “S” bends that look expensive even when the outfit is simple. While the finish can appear intimidating, many professional stylists agree it’s less about having a magic tool and more about doing the fundamentals well—clean sectioning, consistent curl direction, thorough cooling time, and brushing-out with intention.

The good news: you can absolutely create Hollywood waves at home with a curling iron or wand, a few well-chosen clips, and a little patience. The best results come when you treat it like a set—shape first, then refine—rather than trying to “finish” the style straight off the barrel.

What Hollywood waves actually are (and why they look so polished)

Unlike loose beach waves, Hollywood waves are designed to read as uniform from root to ends. The wave pattern is deliberate: clean ridges, consistent direction around the face (typically swept away), and a smooth surface with controlled volume. In salon terms, it’s the difference between “texture” and “shape”.

Professionals often approach this style in two stages:

• Set: Create consistent curls, then pin or clip them to cool in the intended position.
• Dress-out: Brush and mould the pattern into waviness, then set it in place with light hold and shine.

Many stylists also emphasise that Hollywood waves are easier on hair that already holds a style (for example, mid-length to long hair with a slight natural bend). If your hair is very fine or very freshly washed-and-silky, you may need more prep and longer cooling time to make the wave last.

The prep that makes the difference: tools, heat and sectioning

At home, prep is where most people lose (or win) the look. Before you pick up a hot tool, focus on three things: heat safety, grip, and control.

• Heat protection: Apply a heat protectant evenly, especially through mid-lengths and ends. Many stylists recommend this as non-negotiable whenever you’re using irons.
• Set-friendly texture: If your hair is very soft, add a light texture or setting product through the lengths (avoid anything too oily; slickness can collapse the wave).
• Sectioning: Work in clean, manageable sections. The more consistent your sections, the more uniform your wave pattern will look.

Tool choice: A 25–32mm barrel is the sweet spot for classic Hollywood waves on most medium-to-long lengths. Smaller barrels can look more “ringlet”; larger barrels can look more like a blow-dry bend rather than a true wave, especially if your hair drops quickly.

Temperature: Use the lowest effective heat for your hair type. As a practical rule, fine or lightened hair generally benefits from lower settings and extra time to cool; thicker or very resistant hair may need slightly more heat, but still within a sensible range for home styling tools.

Step-by-step: how to do Hollywood waves at home

This method works with both a curling iron (with clamp) and a wand. A clamp iron can be slightly easier for creating consistent bends; a wand can still work beautifully if you keep tension even and ends neat.

• 1) Start dry—and fully cooled. Hair should be 100% dry. If you’ve blow-dried, give it a few minutes to cool before you begin; warm hair can lose shape quickly.
• 2) Create a clean parting. A deep side part is classic, but a centre part can look modern. Decide now so the wave direction around your face is consistent.
• 3) Section intelligently. Clip hair into 3–4 horizontal layers (nape, mid, crown). Work from the bottom up.
• 4) Set curls in the same direction. For the most “old Hollywood” finish, keep curls going in one direction per side. Around the face, many stylists recommend curling away from the face for a lifted, flattering sweep.
• 5) Keep ends polished. Leave the last 2–4cm out for a more expensive, modern finish, or wrap to the ends for a more classic, uniform curl. Either way, be consistent across your head.
• 6) Clip to cool (don’t skip this). As each curl comes off the iron, coil it gently and clip it to your head (or pin it flat to follow the wave direction). Cooling sets the shape; brushing too soon turns it fluffy.
• 7) Release and brush out gradually. Once all curls are fully cool, remove clips. Brush with a soft bristle brush or a wide paddle, starting at the ends and working up. You’re aiming to merge curls into waves, not erase them.
• 8) Sculpt the “S”. Use your brush and fingers to encourage the ridge-and-dip pattern. If you have duckbill clips or sectioning clips, place them along the ridges to “train” the wave for 5–10 minutes.
• 9) Set and shine—lightly. Mist a flexible hairspray from a distance so it doesn’t go crunchy. Add a tiny amount of serum just on the very ends if needed for gloss (too much can collapse the wave).

Real-world practicality: If you only have 20 minutes, focus on the front sections and crown first—Hollywood waves read most clearly around the face, so that’s where the effort pays off fastest.

Common mistakes (and how stylists fix them)

Even with the right tool, small technique slips can make waves look messy or fall flat. Here’s what pros typically correct when refreshing clients’ waves backstage or before an event.

• “My waves drop in an hour.” Use smaller sections, clip every curl to cool, and avoid heavy conditioner or oils before styling. Many stylists also recommend working with second-day hair for extra grip.
• “It looks like curls, not waves.” You likely need a more thorough brush-out and a short “moulding” phase with clips along the ridges to transform curls into an S-pattern.
• “It’s frizzy on top.” Ensure hair is completely dry, lower the heat, and keep tension smooth when wrapping. Finish with a light smoothing pass using a boar-bristle brush rather than layering on product.
• “One side looks different.” Check curl direction and section size. Mirror your technique on each side, especially the front pieces.
• “It feels stiff.” Swap to a flexible hold spray, use less product, and apply in lighter layers. The style should move; the definition comes from set + brushing, not lacquer.

Key Takeaways

• Hollywood waves are a set-and-sculpt style: create uniform curls first, then brush and mould into an “S” pattern.
• Consistent curl direction (especially away from the face) is what makes the finish look intentional and red-carpet polished.
• Clip curls to cool—this single step often determines whether waves last or fall flat.
• Brush-out is essential: the goal is soft, connected waves, not separate curls.
• For a quick version, prioritise the face-framing sections and crown where the wave pattern is most visible.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a curling iron with a clamp for Hollywood waves?
No. A clamp iron can make it easier to keep ends neat and bends consistent, but a wand works well if you maintain even tension and wrap hair smoothly.

What barrel size is best for classic Hollywood waves?
Many stylists favour roughly 25–32mm for a defined but brushable curl. Your hair length and how well it holds a style should guide the final choice.

Should I curl towards or away from my face?
For the most flattering, classic look, curling away from the face is common—particularly for the front sections. The key is consistency so the waves align.

How do I make Hollywood waves last on fine hair?
Use smaller sections, set each curl with clips until fully cool, and keep prep lightweight. A flexible hold spray applied in layers can help without making hair stiff.

Can I do Hollywood waves without hairspray?
You can, but the style may not last as long—especially in damp UK weather. A light, brushable spray helps preserve the wave pattern while keeping movement.

What if my hair looks fluffy after brushing?
Brush more slowly and with a smoother bristle brush, then re-mould the wave with clips along the ridges for a few minutes. Avoid adding heavy oils, which can separate the pattern.