Do Hair Growth Serums Work? A Stylist’s Guide to Length Retention

When someone says, “My hair is finally growing,” what they often mean is that their hair is staying long enough to see a difference. In the UK, it’s incredibly common to feel as though your hair “won’t grow past your shoulders” — especially if you heat style regularly, colour your hair, wear it up tightly, or deal with seasonal shedding. A recent first-person review in Stylist spotlights a fortifying scalp serum as the turning point in one writer’s long-hair journey, sparking a bigger question: what can a “hair growth serum” realistically do, and what should you do alongside it for results you can actually measure?

Many stylists and dermatology-led hair experts make an important distinction: you can’t control the speed of your genetic hair-growth cycle with cosmetics alone, but you can improve the scalp environment, minimise breakage, and support stronger-feeling hair — all of which can make length gains far more visible over time. Below, we break down the practical, evidence-aware approach to serums, routines and expectations, without the hype.

What people mean by “my hair is finally growing”

Hair grows from the root, but what you notice in the mirror is length at the ends. For many people, the real barrier isn’t growth rate — it’s breakage and poor length retention. That “stuck” feeling (often at shoulder or collarbone length) can happen because the ends are the oldest, most weathered part of the hair, and the shoulder area creates constant friction from clothing, scarves and coat collars.

In salon, the most common reasons hair appears not to grow include:

• Breakage from heat and chemical services (blow-dries, straighteners, lightening, frequent permanent colour).
• Mechanical stress (rough towel drying, aggressive detangling, tight ponytails, snagging on jewellery and bag straps).
• Low-level scalp congestion or irritation, where clients feel itchy or flaky and end up over-washing or over-scrubbing.
• Normal shedding that’s more noticeable at certain times of year; many people report increased shedding in late summer/autumn.
• Split ends travelling upwards, leading to repeated “micro-breaks” that undo any new length.

A scalp serum may help by improving the feel of the scalp and supporting a healthier-looking hair fibre from the root. But the biggest “growth” wins usually happen when a serum is combined with better handling of the mid-lengths and ends.

What a fortifying scalp serum can (and can’t) do

Most over-the-counter “hair growth” serums sold in beauty retail are better described as fortifying or anti-breakage treatments. They’re designed to support the scalp barrier, reduce the look of shedding or fall, and help hair feel stronger at the root. Many formulas focus on:

• Hydration and scalp comfort (helpful if your scalp feels tight, dry or reactive to weather and styling).
• Supporting the hair fibre so new growth feels more resilient.
• Reducing breakage-related loss, which can create the impression of “more hair” over time.

What they typically can’t promise: a dramatic change in your genetically determined growth rate. And it’s worth being cautious about absolute claims. If you’re experiencing sudden, heavy shedding, bald patches, scalp pain, or significant itch/flaking, it’s sensible to speak to a pharmacist, GP, or a consultant dermatologist — especially if you’ve changed medication, had a recent illness, or noticed other symptoms.

Where serums often shine, though, is in consistency. They create a ritual: regular scalp massage, mindful parting work, and a daily habit that keeps you connected to your hair’s condition. That alone can improve technique (less tugging, better detangling, lower heat), which can meaningfully boost length retention.

How to use a scalp serum for best results (UK salon-style technique)

The most common reason people don’t see results from leave-in serums is application — too much product, used sporadically, or applied only to hair lengths rather than the scalp. A fortifying scalp serum is usually intended for the scalp skin and root area.

Try this practical approach for four to eight weeks and assess changes in shedding and breakage:

• Apply to a clean, dry or towel-dried scalp (follow the product’s directions). If your scalp is oily, product can sit on the surface rather than absorb comfortably.
• Work in sections: part the hair in 4–6 lines across the scalp and apply small amounts evenly rather than saturating one area.
• Massage with light pressure for 60–90 seconds. Think “move the scalp skin” rather than rubbing the hair. This reduces tangling and helps product spread.
• Keep the mid-lengths protected: if you’re chasing long hair, pair the scalp step with a conditioner/mask and a leave-in on the ends for slip.
• Track one simple metric: take a quick photo of your parting/temples once a week in the same lighting, and note shedding days (e.g., wash day versus non-wash day).

Real-world next step: choose one “non-negotiable” habit this week — either daily 60-second scalp massage or switching to a gentler detangling routine — and do it consistently. Most hair routines fail not because they’re wrong, but because they’re impossible to maintain.

Length retention: the unglamorous routine that actually helps

If your goal is longer hair, you’ll get faster visible wins by protecting what you already have. Serums may support the foundation, but your ends need a strategy. Many UK stylists recommend the following as baseline best practice:

• Heat discipline: keep hot tools for occasional use, always use heat protection, and avoid re-straightening the same section repeatedly.
• Regular micro-trims: for many hair types, a tiny trim every 10–12 weeks can prevent splits from travelling — helping you retain more length overall.
• Low-friction habits: swap harsh towel rubbing for a microfibre towel or cotton tee; consider a silk/satin pillowcase to reduce overnight abrasion.
• Smarter tie-ups: use soft scrunchies, vary your parting and ponytail position, and avoid tight styles when hair is wet.
• Care for the ends like fabric: conditioning, detangling slip and lightweight leave-ins matter more than most people think.

It’s also worth noting that perceived “hair growth success” often coincides with a simpler, more consistent routine. When you reduce heat and friction while using a scalp product regularly, hair tends to look fuller and feel stronger — and that’s when length becomes noticeable.

Key Takeaways

• When people say their hair is “finally growing”, it’s often improved length retention from less breakage, not a sudden change in growth rate.
• Fortifying scalp serums can support scalp comfort and stronger-feeling roots, but they shouldn’t be treated as guaranteed growth accelerators.
• Consistency and technique matter: apply in sections, massage gently, and use the product as directed for at least several weeks.
• Long-hair results usually come from combining scalp care with heat discipline, low-friction handling, and end protection.
• If shedding is sudden, severe, patchy, painful, or persistent, seek professional advice from a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my hair stop at shoulder length?
Often it doesn’t stop growing — it breaks at roughly the same rate it grows. Shoulder length is a high-friction zone (clothing and movement), and ends at this length may be more heat- and colour-exposed.

How long should I try a scalp serum before judging it?
Many people assess feel (comfort, itch, oil balance) within a couple of weeks, but visible changes in fullness or reduced breakage typically need consistent use for at least 6–8 weeks.

Should I apply “hair growth” serum to my lengths or scalp?
Most fortifying or anti-fall serums are designed for the scalp. For lengths, you’ll usually get better results from conditioners, masks and leave-in products that improve slip and reduce breakage.

Can scalp massage help hair look thicker?
Scalp massage can support product distribution and may help you maintain a healthy scalp routine. It’s not a guaranteed thickening method, but many people find it improves comfort and encourages consistency.

What’s the difference between shedding and breakage?
Shedding is hair falling from the root (you’ll often see a tiny white bulb at one end). Breakage is snapping along the strand (short pieces, frayed ends). The fixes are different: scalp-focused support for shedding, and fibre/handling fixes for breakage.

When should I seek professional advice about hair loss?
If you notice sudden heavy shedding, bald patches, scalp pain, bleeding, or symptoms that don’t settle, it’s best to speak with a healthcare professional such as a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist for personalised guidance.