Hair colour choices that can age you and spotlight thinning hair

Hair colour can be one of the quickest ways to refresh your look—yet it can also do the opposite if the shade and placement aren’t working with your skin tone, natural pigment and hair density. A recent GB News piece highlights an expert view that certain colour choices can “age you by decades” and make thinning hair look more obvious. While there’s no single universal ‘bad’ shade for everyone, colour theory and salon experience do back up the broader point: harsh contrast, flat colour and overly dark tones can emphasise scalp show-through and create heavier shadows around the face.

If you’re noticing your hair feels finer, your parting looks wider, or you simply want a more youthful, softer effect, it’s worth thinking less about chasing a trend and more about choosing colour that boosts dimension and light in the right places. Below, we break down why some dye jobs can be ageing, what many UK colourists recommend instead, and practical steps you can take before your next appointment (or box dye decision).

Why some hair colours can look ageing (and why thinning becomes more visible)

Ageing effects in hair colour usually come down to contrast and flatness. In many salons, colourists talk about “soft-focus hair”: dimension that diffuses light rather than creating sharp lines. When colour is too intense, too uniform, or too far from your natural base, it can create a harder outline around the face, making texture changes (fine strands, dryness, frizz) more noticeable.

Thinning hair can also be accentuated by colour for a simple optical reason: the greater the difference between hair and scalp, the easier it is to see through. Under UK winter lighting (and in bathrooms with cool LED bulbs), this effect can be amplified—particularly at the crown and along a widening parting.

• Very dark, one-dimensional colour can cast shadows on facial features and highlight sparse areas at the root.
• Overly light, uniform blonde can wash out some complexions and make hair look less dense if it lacks lowlights.
• Hard regrowth lines draw attention to the scalp and create the appearance of a wider parting.
• Excessively cool/ashy tones can read “flat” on camera and in daylight if not balanced with warmth.

It’s also worth remembering that colour itself doesn’t cause thinning, but repeated chemical processes can leave hair feeling weaker or looking less full if breakage increases. Many stylists recommend spacing out stronger services, choosing bond-supporting techniques, and keeping heat styling controlled—especially for fine hair types.

The expert point: when “too dark” can add years

The GB News article spotlights a commonly shared salon observation: a flat, inky brunette (or jet black) can be ageing on some people, particularly when it’s significantly darker than their natural base. This doesn’t mean brunettes should panic—rich brunette shades can look glossy and expensive. The issue is typically over-saturation and lack of dimension, rather than “dark hair” itself.

In practical terms, the risk areas are:

• Single-process all-over dark colour with no tonal variation.
• Box dye build-up, where pigment layers make hair look matte and heavy.
• Dark colour with a cool/blue base that can make skin look less radiant for some undertones.

If your goal is to look fresher and minimise the look of thinning at the crown, many colourists in the UK will steer you toward softer contrast and strategic light placement—think “expensive brunette”, lived-in balayage, or root smudging that avoids a stark line at the scalp.

What to ask for instead: colour strategies that add softness and density

The most flattering, density-boosting colour work tends to mimic how hair looks in real life: slightly lighter where the sun would naturally hit, slightly deeper underneath, and never fully uniform. If you’re concerned about thinning or simply want a more youthful effect, bring these options to your consultation:

• Root shadow / root melt: A softer root that blends into mids and ends, reducing regrowth harshness and scalp contrast.
• Dimensional brunette: A deep base with subtle caramel, mocha or chestnut ribbons to create movement without going “stripy”.
• Micro-highlights (babylights): Fine, delicate highlights that create a veil of light and can make hair appear fuller.
• Lowlights for blondes: Adding depth back in can prevent hair looking flat and can visually increase density.
• Face-framing brightness (done softly): Gentle lightness around the face can lift the overall look without turning the whole head lighter.

A useful rule of thumb many stylists follow: if you want hair to look thicker, avoid extremes. That means avoiding very high contrast between root and lengths, and avoiding colour that’s either ultra-dark or ultra-light everywhere unless your hair is naturally dense and the tone is carefully balanced.

Real-world next step: In daylight, take two photos—one from the front and one from above—then look for where your hair appears see-through (often crown/parting). That’s the area to discuss for softer blending or targeted highlights rather than an all-over colour change.

At-home colour habits that can make hair look thinner (and how to course-correct)

You don’t need to swear off home colouring, but it helps to understand what creates the “thinner” illusion. The most common culprits are repeated all-over dye sessions and colour choices that are too opaque.

• Avoid repeated all-over dark applications: Refresh mid-lengths and ends less often; focus on regrowth only when possible.
• Choose softer tones: If you’re between shades, many colourists would rather you go slightly lighter/softer than dramatically darker.
• Mind the finish: Dull, dry hair reflects less light, which can make density look reduced. Conditioning masks and gentle blow-drying can improve shine.
• Be careful with purple/blue toners: Over-toning can push hair too ashy, which may look flat depending on your skin tone.

If you suspect colour build-up, ask a professional about a gentle clarifying reset and a gloss/toner to reintroduce shine and correct tone—many salons offer this as a lower-commitment service than a full recolour.

Key Takeaways

• Hair colour can look ageing when it’s overly dark, overly light, or too uniform—flat colour tends to emphasise texture changes and harsh lines.
• Thinning can appear more obvious when there’s high contrast between hair and scalp, especially at the crown and around a widening parting.
• Most UK colourists aim for “soft-focus” dimension: root melts, micro-highlights, and tonal variation that mimics natural light.
• If you colour at home, avoid repeated all-over dark applications; focus on regrowth and maintain shine to keep hair looking fuller.
• Before your next appointment, take daylight photos of your parting/crown and ask for a plan that reduces contrast and boosts movement.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does dark hair always make you look older?
Not necessarily. Dark hair can look striking and sophisticated. The ageing effect usually comes from very dark, one-tone colour that creates harsh contrast or lacks dimension. A multi-tonal brunette often looks softer.

What hair colour is best for thinning hair?
There isn’t one best shade for everyone, but many colourists recommend reducing scalp-to-hair contrast and adding dimension—through subtle highlights, lowlights and root blending—so the eye doesn’t focus on the parting.

Can highlights make fine hair look thicker?
Yes, when done finely and placed well. Babylights or soft balayage can create an illusion of depth and movement, which often reads as fuller hair—especially in photos and overhead lighting.

Is it better to go lighter or darker as you age?
It depends on your natural base, skin tone and maintenance preferences. Many stylists recommend slightly softer, warmer tones and dimensional colour rather than extremes. The most flattering choice is usually the one that keeps hair looking healthy and glossy.

How do I talk to my colourist about thinning without feeling awkward?
Be direct and practical: ask for colour placement that reduces contrast at the crown/parting and avoids a harsh regrowth line. Bringing a photo of how your parting looks in daylight can make the conversation easier.