Sam McKnight MBE’s Guide to the Ultimate Voluminous Blow‑Dry

Sam McKnight MBE, the acclaimed hairdresser behind many iconic ’90s supermodel looks, has long been celebrated for his ability to create long‑lasting volume and movement. In this practical guide we break down McKnight’s essentials — from prepping hair and choosing tools to the step‑by‑step blow‑dry technique that gives hair that lifted, runway-ready finish. These methods focus on structure, tension and the small finishing touches that transform a basic blow‑dry into a brilliantly voluminous style.

Prepare: foundation is everything

McKnight’s approach begins long before the dryer leaves the hair. The foundation — clean hair with balanced moisture, the right cut and strategic layering — determines how well volume holds. He often emphasises shaping the hair during the cut and ensuring the hair isn’t weighed down by heavy products.

Key preparation points:

• Wash with a gentle volumising shampoo and a lightweight conditioner applied only to mid-lengths and ends to avoid flattening the roots.
• Towel-blot gently and apply a root-lifting spray or mousse to the roots to add structure.
• Use a heat protectant with humectant properties to preserve hair health and add slip for smoothing.
• Comb through with a wide-tooth comb and rough-dry until hair is around 70–80% dry to reduce heat exposure.

Tools and product choices

McKnight’s results rely on three fundamentals: the right brush, a powerful dryer with temperature control, and carefully selected styling products. Investing in quality tools delivers smoother cuticle alignment and more reliable shape.

• Round brush: Choose the size according to desired curl and lift — larger barrels (60–80mm) for long hair and soft waves, medium barrels (40–50mm) for lifted roots and bend.
• Hairdryer: A dryer with strong airflow and adjustable heat settings helps you set the shape quickly without over‑processing. A cool shot is essential.
• Styling products: Root-lifters, light mousses, texturising powders and shine serums used sparingly are McKnight staples. Avoid heavy creams at the crown.

Step-by-step: the McKnight blow‑dry method

This sequence condenses McKnight’s practical tips into an at‑home routine. It’s about creating tension, direction and finishing with a cool set to lock in volume.

• Section smartly: Divide hair into working sections — two at the crown, sides and back. Smaller sections give more control and longevity.
• Create root tension: Lift each section at the roots with fingers or the brush and direct the airflow from underneath for lift. Hold the brush taut to create tension between brush and hair.
• Roll and set: Use the round brush to roll the hair up and under at the roots, following the brush with the dryer. Finish the section with a cool shot while the hair is still wrapped around the barrel to set the shape.
• Smooth mid-lengths: When moving down the section, slide the brush through hair with steady tension to smooth the cuticle while still preserving body.
• Release and style: Once dry, release each section gently and allow it to cool. Avoid touching hair while it’s warm to prevent flattening.

For that classic ’90s supermodel silhouette — soft, lifted roots with flowing mid-lengths — focus your greatest tension and rolling action at the crown and upper sections.

Finishing touches for hold and movement

Finishing is as important as the blow‑dry itself. McKnight prefers subtle products that won’t weigh hair down but will enhance texture and longevity.

• Apply a pea-sized amount of lightweight serum to mid-lengths and ends for shine; avoid roots.
• For added texture and grip, lightly sprinkle a texturising powder at the roots and massage through with fingertips.
• Set the style with a flexible-hold hairspray at arm’s length to maintain movement while holding structure.
• For extra glamour, consider rolling the top sections onto velcro rollers for 10–15 minutes after drying to boost lift without heat.

Key Takeaways

• Preparation sets the stage: lightweight conditioning and root-lifting products prevent hair from being weighed down.
• Proper tools matter: a quality round brush and a dryer with cool-shot lock the shape faster and gentler.
• Tension and direction create volume: lift roots, roll the hair on the brush and finish with cool air to set the shape.
• Finish lightly: use minimal serum on lengths, texturising powder at the roots and a flexible-hold spray to retain movement.
• Maintenance extends results: avoid over-washing, refresh with dry shampoo and protect hair health with regular trims and nourishing treatments.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I wash my hair if I want more volume?
Washing frequency depends on hair type: fine hair may benefit from more frequent cleansing to avoid oil build-up, while thicker hair can stretch to 2–3 days. Use a gentle volumising shampoo and dry shampoo between washes to absorb oil and revive lift.

Can I achieve McKnight’s blow‑dry at home without professional tools?
Yes. You can approximate the effect with a medium‑to‑high quality hairdryer, a couple of round brushes (different sizes) and the right products. The method is about technique — sectioning, creating tension and using cool air to set volume.

Will heat styling damage my hair?
Heat can damage hair if used excessively or at high temperatures. Always use a heat protectant, avoid overly high heat settings, and keep the dryer moving rather than holding it in one place. Regular deep conditioning helps maintain hair resilience.

What’s the best brush for lift at the crown?
A medium to large round brush with a ceramic or boar-ceramic mix supports heat distribution and creates a smoother finish while delivering lift. Choose a brush size that matches the length of your hair and the size of the curl you want to create.

How do I make volume last through humid weather?
Use anti-humidity serums sparingly on lengths (not roots), set styles with a light flexible-hold spray and keep hair trimmed to prevent split ends that encourage frizz. Texturising powders can also help maintain grip at the roots in humid conditions.