Reimagining Hair Porosity for Smarter, Targeted Haircare

Hair porosity has moved from obscure salon jargon to a mainstream buzzword on TikTok and in UK beauty aisles. But as brands rush to label products for “low porosity” or “high porosity” hair, the science – and the nuance – can easily get lost. An emerging wave of ingredient research and claims testing is now challenging the simplistic view of porosity and pushing the industry towards more precise, evidence-aware solutions.

This article explores how hair porosity is being reimagined: what it really means, how it can guide better ingredient choices, and why the next generation of claims may focus less on fad labels and more on measurable hair performance. For everyday readers, that translates into a more practical question: how porous is your hair, and what can you realistically do about it at home and in the salon?

What Hair Porosity Actually Is – Beyond Social Media Myths

In professional terms, hair porosity describes how easily water and other substances move into and out of the hair fibre. It is influenced by the structure of the cuticle (the outer layer), the condition of the cortex beneath it, and any chemical or physical damage the strand has experienced.

Many social media tests – particularly the “float test” where you drop a strand of hair into water to see if it sinks – have popularised a very binary view of porosity. Most cosmetic scientists and experienced stylists agree that this approach oversimplifies a complex picture. In the lab, porosity can be evaluated using controlled methods such as:

• Swelling and water uptake tests – measuring how quickly and how much water hair absorbs.
• Scanning electron microscopy – visually assessing cuticle lift, gaps and surface damage.
• Dye or marker penetration studies – tracking how far ingredients move into hair fibres.

In real life, of course, most of us do not have access to microscopes and lab protocols. UK stylists often fall back on touch, visual assessment and performance: how quickly the hair gets drenched, how long it takes to dry, how well colour holds, and how frizz-prone it becomes in damp weather.

Instead of thinking of porosity as a strict type, it can be more accurate to see it as a spectrum – and one that can vary across different parts of the same head of hair, particularly where highlights, relaxers, heat styling or extensions have been used.

Low, Medium and High Porosity: How Each Behaviour Shapes Product Needs

Despite its limitations, the low/normal/high framework is still useful as a starting point, especially when linked carefully to ingredient behaviour rather than hype. Many recent ingredient launches, including those showcased in global trade publications, frame their benefits around measurable improvements to porosity-related characteristics such as moisture retention, cuticle smoothness and manageability.

From a practical, everyday perspective, the three broad behaviours look like this:

• Low porosity hair
  Cuticles lie relatively flat and tightly packed. Hair may take a while to become fully saturated with water and can feel product-heavy easily. It often appears shiny but can be prone to product build-up on the surface.
• Medium (or balanced) porosity hair
  The cuticle is reasonably intact and lets in enough moisture without losing it too quickly. This hair usually responds predictably to colouring, holds styles well and is easier to maintain.
• High porosity hair
  Cuticles are chipped, lifted or more widely spaced – often due to chemical colour, relaxers, bleaching, repeated heat styling or rough handling. Hair gets soaked quickly, dries quickly, and can feel rough, frizzy or fragile. Curls may look deflated or inconsistent.

In the UK, textured hair communities have been particularly vocal about porosity because it strongly influences how curls and coils hold hydration. Meanwhile, colour-focused salons see porosity daily when trying to achieve even tone on previously lightened or compromised hair.

For product developers, these behaviours open the door to more targeted ingredient solutions and claims. Instead of generalised “for dry hair” labels, we are beginning to see technologies fine-tuned for surface smoothing, internal reinforcement or controlled deposition on specific porosity levels.

Targeted Ingredient Strategies for Different Porosity Levels

Reimagining porosity in product development is not only about categorising hair; it is about matching technologies to how the fibre behaves. While the details of proprietary complexes vary from supplier to supplier, there are some recurring strategic themes that many formulators and stylists recognise.

For lower porosity hair: lighter, smarter penetration

• Low-residue cleansing – Many stylists recommend periodic gentle clarifying, particularly in hard-water regions of the UK, to help remove film-formers that can sit on the surface and make low porosity hair feel coated.
• Light-weight conditioning – Formulas often lean on more fluid conditioners, humectants and smaller-molecule actives that can work without leaving excess weight, especially on finer strands.
• Heat-assisted absorption – Under professional supervision, gentle heat (like a hood dryer or steamer) can improve penetration of treatments on resistant hair.

For balanced porosity hair: preserving the status quo

• Protective surfactant systems – Shampoos that cleanse without stripping help maintain cuticle integrity over time.
• Film-forming conditioners and polymers – These create a smooth, glossy surface, enhance combability and help resist everyday mechanical damage.
• Routine UV and heat protection – Particularly relevant to those using straighteners, tongs, or regular blow-dries in UK salons and at home.

For high porosity hair: rebuilding, sealing and shielding

• Bond-targeting actives – Many modern treatments are designed to support the internal structure of the hair fibre, particularly after bleaching or chemical services. While specific claims depend on testing, the overarching goal is to improve strength and elasticity.
• Rich conditioning and sealing – Heavier emollients, butters and certain silicones or silicone alternatives are often used to reduce roughness, enhance shine and slow down moisture loss.
• Cuticle-smoothing polymers – These help fill in damaged areas and create a more uniform surface, which in turn improves light reflection, reduces tangling and can enhance colour vibrancy.

For consumers, the practical step is to observe how your hair behaves: does it drink up products instantly yet still feel dry? Does it sit with product on top? Does colour fade quickly? These clues can help you steer towards the right textures and technologies, even if you do not know your exact porosity number.

From Buzzword to Measurable Benefit: The Future of Porosity Claims

As ingredient suppliers and brands look ahead, porosity is being reframed not only as a marketing hook but as a testable performance parameter. Rather than merely labelling products "for high porosity hair", more robust approaches are emerging, including:

• Instrumental measurements – Tracking improvements in combing force, breakage, fibre swelling and water uptake after treatment.
• Surface analysis – Demonstrating smoother cuticles and reduced surface damage using imaging techniques.
• Longer-term protection claims – Showing how regular use of specific ingredient systems supports colour retention, frizz control or manageability in hair that starts out highly porous.

For UK consumers, this shift should gradually translate into clearer, more transparent claims: for instance, “helps reduce breakage on bleached hair” or “improves combability on damaged, porous hair”, ideally supported by test data rather than trend-led language.

Hairporium’s editorial team keeps a close eye on these developments, not to push particular formulas but to help decode what new porosity claims really mean in practice. When you next pick up a product in Boots or browse an online haircare collection, it is worth reading beyond the buzzword to see how the claim is supported and which hair behaviours it truly targets.

In everyday life, a simple yet effective action is to take a few weeks to track how your hair responds to water, weather and products in a notebook or phone app – this real-world diary can be just as revealing as any label.

Key Takeaways

• Hair porosity describes how easily substances move into and out of the hair fibre, and it exists on a spectrum rather than in rigid “types”.
• Low, medium and high porosity behaviours influence how hair absorbs water, holds colour and responds to products, which is highly relevant in UK salons and at-home care routines.
• Ingredient strategies are becoming more targeted, with technologies tailored to smoothing cuticles, supporting internal structure or preventing build-up depending on porosity.
• Future haircare claims are likely to focus on measurable benefits – such as reduced breakage or improved combability – rather than vague porosity buzzwords.
• You can take practical steps now by observing how your hair behaves with water, weather and products, then choosing textures and routines that align with those patterns.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I get a reliable idea of my hair’s porosity at home?
While informal tests exist, many stylists suggest focusing on behaviour over gimmicks. Notice how long your hair takes to get fully wet, how quickly it dries, whether it feels rough or smooth, and how well it holds colour or treatments. Bringing these observations to a trusted stylist can help you get a more accurate, personalised assessment.

Can my hair’s porosity change over time?
Yes. Chemical colouring, relaxing, perming, heat styling and environmental stress can all increase porosity by lifting or damaging the cuticle. Conversely, consistent care with gentle cleansing, conditioning and protective styling can help maintain or improve the feel and performance of porous hair over time.

Is high porosity hair always damaged?
Not necessarily, but high porosity is often associated with some degree of structural wear, especially after bleaching or frequent heat styling. Some people naturally have more porous hair, while others develop it through styling choices. The key is to focus on supportive routines – richer conditioning, bond-supporting treatments and careful detangling – rather than assuming all high porosity hair is “bad”.

Do I need products that explicitly say “for my porosity type” on the label?
Not always. What matters most is how the formula behaves on your hair. Light, fluid products may suit hair that gets easily weighed down, while richer creams and masks may suit hair that feels rough, frizzy or very thirsty. Clear claims around moisture, strength and frizz control can be just as helpful as porosity labels, especially when chosen with your stylist’s input.

What is one simple change I can make this month to support my hair’s porosity?
A realistic starting point is to reassess your cleansing routine. If your hair feels coated and resistant to moisture, introducing a gentle clarifying wash every few weeks may help. If it feels rough and dry, you might swap a very strong shampoo for a milder option and add a rinse-out conditioner or mask tailored to your hair’s current condition.