Big hair has swept back onto catwalks, red carpets and Instagram feeds – all high crown, brushed-out bends and unapologetic glamour. From Bardot-inspired lift to polished 1990s bouncy blow-dries, the most modern silhouettes are starting at the roots again. While legendary stylists like Sam McKnight are sculpting the look for fashion shows and campaigns, you absolutely can recreate that height and drama at home with the right prep, tools and a few clever tricks.
This guide breaks down how to achieve big, voluminous hair in a realistic, UK-friendly way – whether you’re working with fine, flat strands, coily textures or a lived-in shag cut. Think of it as your practical playbook for turning up the volume, without turning your hair to straw.
Why Big Hair Is Back – And How to Prepare Your Hair
The return of big hair is partly nostalgic – a nod to the supermodel blow-dries of the 1990s and the soft, halo-like volume of the 1970s – and partly a rebellion against ultra-flat, poker-straight styling. In the UK, stylists are seeing more requests for rounded, lifted shapes that frame the face and photograph beautifully, whether under office lighting or at winter weddings.
Before you reach for hot tools, though, the foundation for long-lasting volume is always in the wash and prep. Many stylists recommend focusing on weightless cleansing at the roots and moisture through the ends, especially in cities where pollution and hard water can leave hair dull and limp.
-
Choose a light shampoo: Opt for a volumising or “body-boosting” formula at the roots. If your scalp is easily irritated, dermatologists often suggest gentle, fragrance-minimised products.
-
Condition strategically: Apply conditioner mainly from mid-lengths to ends to avoid flattening the crown. Rinse thoroughly so no residue is left behind.
-
Blot, don’t rub: Use a microfibre towel or soft T-shirt to gently squeeze out excess water. Vigorous rubbing can roughen the cuticle and encourage frizz rather than controlled lift.
-
Apply heat protection: If you’re planning to blow-dry, a heat protectant spray or cream is non-negotiable to help reduce damage over time.
On your next wash day, try simply shifting your conditioning routine – keeping it off the roots – and you may notice an instant improvement in root lift, even before styling.
How to Create High-Impact Volume with a Blow-Dryer
For many UK stylists, the classic big-hair blueprint is still a structured blow-dry: smooth at the cuticle, full at the crown, and shaped at the ends. You don’t need a salon chair or a full roller set to get close to this effect.
Here is a step-by-step routine you can try at home using a round brush and dryer with a nozzle:
-
1. Pre-dry for lift: Flip your head upside down and blow-dry until hair is around 70 per cent dry. Focus the airflow at the roots, using your fingers to lift sections upwards. This builds a rough foundation of volume.
-
2. Section cleanly: Flip your head back up and create a horizontal parting from ear to ear, clipping the top section up. Divide the bottom into manageable sections about the width of your round brush.
-
3. Round-brush the lengths: Position the brush underneath a section at the roots, pull upwards and slightly forwards, and follow with the dryer nozzle. Roll the brush through the lengths, keeping consistent tension, then allow the hair to cool on the brush for a few seconds before releasing.
-
4. Focus on the crown: The crown and fringe/front sections make or break big hair. Over-direct hair by pulling it up and forwards as you dry – this trick, often used backstage, gives that runway lift once the hair drops back.
-
5. Set the shape: For extra staying power, you can loosely roll warm sections around Velcro rollers or self-grip rollers at the crown and let them cool while you do your make-up. Gently remove and brush through.
-
6. Finish with a flexible hold spray: Rather than a stiff lacquer, choose a light mist of flexible hairspray and apply from at least 20–25cm away. This helps maintain movement while supporting the shape.
If you struggle with round brushes, many UK blow-dry bars now favour hot brushes and blow-dry stylers that combine airflow and heat in one tool. Used on damp hair, these can be more intuitive for beginners and still create a lifted, bouncy finish.
Heatless and Low-Heat Ways to Get Big Hair
Not everyone wants to rely on a full, high-heat blow-dry – especially if you’re growing your hair, colouring regularly or wearing extensions. Fortunately, the “big hair” effect can be achieved with lower heat or even heatless methods that focus on shape and root direction rather than intense styling.
-
Heatless rollers: Foam or fabric rollers applied to damp or lightly misted hair can create impressive volume. Roll hair away from the face and secure at the crown for height, then allow to dry fully before removing.
-
Overnight braids: For a more undone, beachy version of big hair, many people find that two or four loose braids in slightly damp hair, slept in overnight, create soft, expanded waves. In the morning, undo and brush out for airy fullness.
-
Pin-curls: Wind sections of damp hair into loose pin-curls at the top of the head, pinning them flat. Once fully dry, remove pins and break up the curls with fingers – this recreates a vintage-inspired, rounded volume.
-
Diffusing curls and coils: For curly and coily hair, big volume is often about definition and gentle expansion rather than forcing smoothness. Using a diffuser on low heat and low speed, while lifting sections at the roots, can encourage a rounded, cloud-like shape.
Try setting aside one evening when you’re at home to experiment with rollers or braids. That way, you can refine your technique without the pressure of needing salon-perfect hair for work the next morning.
Texture, Teasing and Products: The Professional Tricks for Lift
Behind the scenes at shows and shoots, stylists like Sam McKnight often rely on a series of small, almost invisible techniques to hold height in place. While you may not have an entire kit bag to hand, you can borrow a few of these methods to upgrade your at-home routine.
-
Root sprays and mousses: Many stylists recommend a light mousse or root-lifting spray applied directly at the crown while hair is damp. Work in with your fingers before blow-drying in the opposite direction to your usual parting for extra oomph.
-
Dry texturising spray: Once hair is dry and styled, a texturising spray at the roots can create a gentle, gritty feel that stops volume from collapsing during the day.
-
Gentle backcombing: Old-school backcombing has had a modern upgrade. Using a fine tail comb, take a small section at the crown, hold it taut, and gently push the comb downwards towards the scalp a few times. Smooth over the top section so no teasing is visible.
-
Change your parting: Flipping your parting to the opposite side of where it naturally falls is a simple, heat-free way to add instant lift and a fresh silhouette.
-
Clip-in height: Those who wear extensions can place a clip-in weft slightly higher at the back of the head for an instant bump in fullness, taking care not to stress the hair.
In daily life, try adding one “lift” product (such as mousse or texture spray) and one “support” technique (such as changing your parting or a touch of backcombing) rather than layering lots of formulas at once. This helps you understand what genuinely works for your hair rather than relying on guesswork.
Caring for Hair While Chasing Big Volume
Big hair should feel luxurious, not brittle. The main concern stylists hear from clients is fear of damage from extra heat styling, teasing and hairspray. With a few supportive habits, you can enjoy high-volume looks while still treating your strands kindly.
-
Keep a balanced routine: Many professionals suggest alternating “big hair days” with low-manipulation styles such as loose buns, plaits or protective styles for textured hair.
-
Brush thoughtfully: Use a soft-bristled brush to smooth and detangle, starting from the ends and working upwards. Avoid aggressive brushing on teased sections; instead, gently work through with your fingers first.
-
Don’t sleep in heavy backcombing: Before bed, mist hair lightly with water or a leave-in spray and carefully brush out any teasing. Going to sleep with hair heavily tangled can increase breakage risk.
-
Prioritise scalp comfort: If you notice persistent itchiness, tightness or flaking, it can be worth easing off heavy styling products and, if needed, speaking to a professional such as a trichologist or dermatologist.
-
Plan regular trims: Scheduling trims every 8–12 weeks helps keep ends healthy. Voluminous styles tend to look best when the shape of the cut is maintained.
In practice, this might mean reserving your full, big-hair routine for key dates – a Friday night out, a wedding, or a photoshoot – and taking a gentler approach during the week.
Key Takeaways
- Big hair is firmly back in fashion, with UK stylists reporting more requests for lifted crowns, bouncy blow-dries and rounded silhouettes that frame the face.
- Long-lasting volume starts in the shower: keep conditioning away from the roots, cleanse thoroughly and always protect hair with a heat shield before drying or styling.
- Blow-dry techniques such as over-directing the hair, using round brushes and setting the crown with rollers can dramatically increase root lift at home.
- Heatless options – from foam rollers to overnight braids and diffusing curls – offer glamorous volume while being kinder to fragile or colour-treated hair.
- Supporting habits, including gentle detangling, regular trims and scalp-aware product choices, allow you to enjoy big, glamorous hair without compromising overall hair health.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I get big hair if my hair is very fine and flat?
Fine hair responds well to layered volume: start with a light volumising shampoo, avoid heavy conditioners at the roots, then use a mousse or root-lifting spray before blow-drying. Over-directing the hair (drying it in the opposite direction to how it sits) and finishing with a dry texturising spray are techniques many stylists use on fine hair clients for noticeable lift.
Will backcombing damage my hair?
Harsh, repeated backcombing can be stressful for the cuticle, but modern, gentle teasing at the roots – in small sections and only where needed – can be relatively low impact when done carefully. Always remove teasing before sleeping, using a light mist of water or leave-in conditioner and a soft brush, starting from the ends. If your hair is very fragile, prioritise product-based lift instead, such as mousses and texture sprays.
What’s the best way to get big hair without heat?
Heatless rollers, loose overnight braids and pin-curls are all effective ways to build volume. For curls and coils, encouraging your natural pattern with a diffuser on a low setting, or air-drying with the hair held up in clips at the roots, can also add height. The key is to start with hair that is damp rather than soaking wet and ensure it dries completely before you take the set down.
How do I stop my big hair from going flat during the day?
Longevity is all about preparation and structure. Many stylists recommend layering support: a root product on damp hair, a thorough blow-dry with over-direction, and a light texturising spray at the roots once hair is cool. Avoid overloading the ends with heavy oils or creams, and consider flipping your parting or gently shaking out the roots with your fingers halfway through the day to revive lift.
Is big hair suitable for curly and coily textures?
Absolutely. Big hair looks especially striking on curly and coily patterns, where volume is often naturally present. Focus on hydration and definition first – using curl creams or gels that suit your pattern – then expand the shape with gentle picking at the roots, diffusing, or stretching methods like banding. If you wear protective styles, you can also request layered cuts or specific shaping that enhances volume when your hair is out.
How often is it safe to do a full big-hair routine?
There isn’t one rule for everyone, but many people find a once- or twice-weekly full styling session is a reasonable balance, especially if they’re using heat tools. In between, consider lower-heat or heatless styles to give your hair a break. If you notice increasing dryness or breakage, it can be helpful to scale back, introduce more hydrating treatments and, if concerned, seek professional advice.
