What LVMH’s new review reveals about ageing hair biology

Ageing hair is often described in everyday terms—thinning at the crown, a widening parting, more wiry texture, or a sudden rush of greys—but the science behind these changes is far more intricate than “getting older”. A new scientific review highlighted by LVMH brings together emerging research on what happens inside the hair follicle as we age, from stem cell function and pigment loss to the role the scalp environment may play. For consumers in the UK—where conversations about longevity, perimenopause, stress and proactive self-care are increasingly mainstream—this kind of biology-led insight matters because it shapes what future haircare and salon services may realistically be able to do.

Importantly, scientific reviews don’t “solve” ageing hair overnight. What they can do, however, is clarify which mechanisms are most strongly evidenced and which are still evolving—helping formulators, trichologists and stylists target the right problems with more precision, and helping readers make sense of marketing claims with a little more confidence.

Ageing hair: what changes first—and why it can feel so personal

Most people notice hair ageing not as a single event, but as a collection of small shifts that gather momentum over time. In UK salons, it’s common to hear clients describe hair that “doesn’t behave” like it used to: blow-dries don’t hold, lengths feel drier, curls drop or frizz differently, and colour appointments become more frequent as greys appear.

Biologically, hair ageing is often discussed across a few overlapping areas:

• Hair fibre changes: the strand itself can become drier, rougher, more prone to breakage, and less reflective—often felt as dullness or “coarseness”.
• Follicle function changes: growth can slow, the time hair spends in the growing phase may shorten, and density can reduce over time.
• Pigment changes: greying occurs when pigment production in the follicle declines, leading to uncoloured fibres.
• Scalp and micro-environment changes: the condition of the scalp (barrier function, inflammation-prone tendencies, sebum pattern changes) may influence how comfortably follicles function.

LVMH’s review as reported in CosmeticsDesign-Europe focuses on the biology underpinning these shifts—particularly stem cell dysfunction, greying, and scalp health factors that could influence future formulation strategies. This scientific lens is useful because it separates “what we see” (thinner hair, grey hair, drier hair) from “what drives it” (cell signalling, follicle cycling, pigment cell dynamics, and the environment around the follicle).

Stem cells, the follicle cycle, and why density may change with age

Hair growth isn’t continuous in the way many people imagine. Each follicle cycles through phases of growth, transition and rest. Over time—and depending on genetics, hormonal shifts, and broader lifestyle factors—follicles can spend less time in growth and more time in rest, which may translate into visible thinning or slower regrowth after shedding.

Scientific discussions about ageing increasingly centre on the idea that follicle stem cells and their “niche” (supportive environment) may not function as efficiently with age. In practical terms, that can mean follicles are less responsive to the signals that would normally help initiate robust new growth, maintain fibre calibre, and recover after periods of increased shedding.

It’s also why many stylists recommend separa­ting hair-density concerns into two tracks:

• Hair fibre preservation (protecting what’s there): reducing breakage so hair looks and feels fuller through the lengths.
• Scalp-first support (optimising conditions for growth): maintaining a clean, comfortable, well-conditioned scalp environment over time.

While cosmetic products can’t override genetics, they can support the appearance and feel of fuller hair by improving fibre strength, reducing friction, and keeping the scalp balanced—especially when paired with good salon technique and realistic expectations.

Greys aren’t “just colour”: what pigment biology suggests

Greys are often framed as a simple pigment loss, but pigment biology is tied closely to follicle function. The review referenced in the RSS summary highlights greying as part of the broader ageing follicle story—linking pigment changes to cellular function within the follicle, rather than viewing it as a superficial change alone.

From a real-world haircare perspective, this matters because grey hair frequently behaves differently: it can feel more resistant to colour, more wiry or dry, and more prone to flyaways. That doesn’t mean grey hair is “worse”—it simply means your routine may need recalibration.

Many colourists in the UK adjust their approach to greys by focusing on:

• Hydration + surface smoothing to improve shine and manageability.
• Gentler cleansing if the scalp is drier, while still removing build-up that can dull greys.
• Colour strategy (for those who dye): realistic maintenance plans, glossing, or blending techniques to reduce harsh regrowth lines.

If you’re embracing grey, day-to-day manageability often improves with regular conditioning, heat protection, and a cut that complements your current texture (many clients notice their curl pattern or volume shifts as greys come through).

The scalp environment: barrier comfort, build-up, and “future-facing” formulation

The review also points to scalp health as part of the ageing hair conversation—an area gaining momentum across the UK hair industry. Scalp care has moved from niche to mainstream because people are connecting the dots between comfort (itch, tightness, flaking tendencies), styling results (roots that fall flat, excess oil, or dryness), and overall hair appearance.

It’s crucial to keep language evidence-aware here: dermatologists and trichologists often emphasise that persistent scalp symptoms (ongoing itch, soreness, significant flaking, sudden shedding) should be assessed professionally, because multiple conditions can look similar. In day-to-day haircare terms, though, many stylists recommend a supportive baseline routine that reduces irritation risk and avoids heavy build-up.

What can you do next—practically—without overhauling your whole bathroom shelf? Consider a simple “reset and support” plan for four weeks:

• Cleanse thoroughly but kindly: shampoo the scalp (not just the lengths) and rinse well; avoid piling conditioner onto roots unless your hair type needs it.
• Condition with purpose: use conditioner primarily mid-lengths to ends; add a weekly mask if the fibre feels wiry or brittle.
• Protect during styling: heat protection and lower temperature tools can reduce breakage that mimics thinning.
• Mind friction: swap rough towel-drying for gentle squeezing; consider a silk or satin pillowcase if you wake with frizz or breakage at the temples.
• Book a reality-check appointment: ask your stylist to assess breakage vs regrowth, and to tweak your cut/colour plan around your current texture and density.

From an industry point of view, science-led reviews like this often influence where formulation heads next—think ingredients chosen to support the scalp barrier, improve fibre resilience, and optimise the hair/scalp interface for better cosmetic outcomes. Hairporium will continue to translate these complex research themes into practical, salon-informed guidance readers can actually use.

Key Takeaways

• Ageing hair is driven by multiple overlapping changes: fibre condition, follicle cycling, pigment biology and the scalp environment.
• Research increasingly focuses on follicle stem cell function and the “niche” around the follicle as a factor in density and growth changes.
• Grey hair is linked to changes within the follicle, not just surface colour—so texture and manageability often shift too.
• A scalp-first routine (thorough but gentle cleansing, minimal build-up, comfort-focused care) is a practical foundation many stylists recommend.
• If you’re unsure whether you’re seeing breakage or true thinning, a stylist consultation and a simple four-week routine reset can clarify your next steps.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does ageing always mean hair will thin?
Not necessarily. Many people maintain good density throughout life, while others notice gradual changes. Genetics, hormonal shifts, styling habits, and fibre breakage all influence what you see in the mirror.

Why does grey hair feel wirier or drier?
Many people find grey hair reflects light differently and feels less supple. Conditioning, smoothing products, and heat protection can improve manageability without needing an overly complicated routine.

Is scalp care really relevant if my issue is the lengths?
Yes—your scalp is the environment hair grows from, and comfort matters. Even if your main concern is dryness or frizz through the lengths, scalp build-up or irritation can affect how hair behaves at the root.

How can I tell if I’m thinning or just breaking?
Breakage often shows as lots of shorter pieces throughout, especially around the hairline and crown, and can be linked to heat, tension, or chemical processing. Thinning tends to look like reduced density from the root. Your stylist can help assess both and adjust your routine.

What’s the most helpful first step if my hair has changed recently?
Start with a four-week “baseline” routine: consistent cleansing, focused conditioning, and careful styling with heat protection. If changes are sudden or accompanied by scalp discomfort, it’s sensible to seek professional advice.