How to Embrace Natural Curls (Without the 80s Frizz)

For many of us, the relationship with curls has been a long one: years of battling “frizz”, trying to brush out texture, or assuming that smooth apparently equals “done”. But a growing number of women are re-embracing their natural pattern—an energy captured recently in a personal essay inspired by the return of big, joyful, 1980s-style curls (with Nicole Kidman often cited as a modern reference point for high-impact, lived-in volume). The shift isn’t only about nostalgia; it’s about technique. When you learn how curls behave, they stop feeling “impossible to manage” and start becoming your easiest, most expressive hair days.

In UK salons, stylists increasingly talk about “curl education” rather than “curl control”. That means understanding density, porosity, and how your hair responds to water and hold—then choosing styling steps that enhance definition rather than fight it. If your curls were once frizzy, dense, or unpredictable, the good news is that these traits are often workable with a more curl-specific routine and kinder handling.

The 80s curl revival: what’s actually changed (and what hasn’t)

The 1980s curl aesthetic had two signatures—volume and confidence—yet the methods were often rough: vigorous towel-drying, aggressive brushing, and high-alcohol hairsprays that could leave hair brittle and puffy. Today, the look is back, but the approach is more refined. Modern “big curls” are typically built on healthy hydration, controlled hold, and gentle drying, creating lift without the halo of breakage.

It’s also worth separating two different end goals that get lumped together as “frizz”:

• Volume frizz: a soft, airy expansion of curls that can look glamorous when intentional.
• Damage frizz: roughness and flyaways caused by dryness, breakage, heat stress, or over-processing.

Many stylists encourage clients to keep a little “natural haze” for realism and bounce, then focus effort on reducing true roughness—especially at the ends and around the crown. In practice, that means revisiting how you cleanse, condition, and style rather than immediately reaching for straighteners.

How to work with dense, frizz-prone curls—step by step

Dense curls often feel heavy when wet, then expand dramatically as they dry. That’s why the order of operations matters: define first, then add volume. If you try to create lift before your curl pattern has set, you’ll often end up with puff rather than shape.

• Start with a water-first mindset: style curls while they’re truly wet (not just damp). Water helps clumps form, which is the foundation of definition.
• Condition with intention: distribute conditioner evenly, then detangle gently with fingers or a wide-tooth comb while the hair is saturated. This reduces mechanical breakage.
• Apply leave-in and hold in sections: for dense hair, “surface application” often isn’t enough. Work in 4–6 sections so product reaches the mid-lengths and ends.
• Encourage curl clumps: use a “praying hands” motion to smooth, then scrunch upward to help the pattern spring.
• Lock in definition before touching: air-dry or diffuse on low/medium heat. Avoid handling until a cast forms (that slightly crisp feel from gel or mousse).
• Finish by breaking the cast: once fully dry, scrunch out the cast with dry hands. If needed, add a tiny amount of lightweight oil on palms first.

Real-world practicality: tomorrow morning, try styling on soaking-wet hair and do not brush it once you’ve applied your hold product. For many curl types, that one change reduces frizz more than any new purchase.

Getting the “Nicole-ish” volume without losing definition

The modern version of 80s volume is about lift at the roots with curl integrity through the lengths. Volume techniques also differ depending on your cut and parting. If you repeatedly struggle with flat roots and fluffy ends, you’re not alone—this is one of the most common curl complaints in salons.

These are the pro-friendly methods that tend to work across curl patterns:

• Root clipping: place small clips at the root while drying to lift curls away from the scalp. This helps density dry with air flow rather than compressing.
• Diffuse upside down (briefly): start upright to set definition, then flip for 1–2 minutes to boost root lift without disrupting the curl clumps.
• Switch your part late: once hair is fully dry, move the part to the opposite side for instant lift.
• Pick only the roots: a hair pick can add fullness, but reserve it for the roots—combing through lengths is a shortcut to frizz.

If you’re chasing a more uniform, “editorial” halo of curls, ask your stylist about curly shaping and internal weight removal. Done well, it can create movement and height without thinning the ends into a triangle. Many curl specialists also recommend revisiting trims more regularly than you might have with straight hair; curls can hide split ends until they suddenly don’t.

What to avoid if you want softer, healthier curls

Most of the “my curls are unmanageable” feeling comes from a few repeat habits. Curls are inherently more prone to dryness because natural oils travel down the hair shaft less easily on a spiral; that means rough handling shows up fast.

• Brushing dry curls: it pulls apart curl clumps, creating volume that reads as frizz and can stress fragile ends.
• Rough towel drying: terry towels can snag cuticles; many stylists prefer microfibre towels or a soft cotton T-shirt.
• Overusing high heat without protection: repeated hot tools can loosen curl pattern over time and increase breakage. If you diffuse, keep it moving and avoid the highest settings.
• Too much heavy butter or oil at the wrong stage: dense curls may tolerate richer products, but applying them before your hold can prevent definition and make hair feel coated.
• Skipping clarification forever: if curls feel dull, sticky, or limp, buildup may be masking your pattern. A periodic clarifying cleanse can help—followed by deep conditioning.

On scalp comfort: if itchiness, persistent flaking, or soreness is present, it’s wise to take a cautious approach—many dermatologists suggest seeking professional advice rather than layering fragranced products and hoping it settles. A healthy scalp environment often supports better curl formation, but it’s not something to self-diagnose.

Key Takeaways

• Think “curl education”: definition comes from wet styling, gentle handling, and controlled hold—not fighting your texture.
• Separate volume from damage: a little natural haze can be beautiful; persistent roughness often signals dryness or breakage.
• For dense curls, sectioned application and minimal touching while drying are two of the biggest frizz-reducers.
• Big 80s-inspired volume works best when you lift roots after definition has set (root clips, careful diffusing, part switching).
• One practical next step: style on soaking-wet hair, add a hold product, then leave it alone until fully dry before scrunching out the cast.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my “frizz” is just my curl pattern?
If your hair feels soft but looks airy and expanded, that may be natural volume. If it feels rough, looks dull, and tangles easily—especially at the ends—it may be dryness or damage.

Should I use mousse, gel, or cream for big curls?
Many curl stylists recommend choosing based on the finish you want: mousse for lighter lift, gel for stronger definition and cast, and creams for softness. You can also layer: cream or leave-in first, then a gel or mousse to set.

Why do my curls look great wet, then go fluffy when dry?
Common causes include not enough hold, touching the hair while it’s drying, or applying products when hair is only damp. Wet styling plus a set-and-dry phase typically helps.

Is diffusing bad for curly hair?
Diffusing isn’t inherently bad, but high heat and aggressive movement can increase frizz and stress the hair. Use medium heat, low speed, and try to “cup” curls rather than blast them.

How often should curly hair be clarified?
It depends on your routine and water hardness. If hair feels coated, limp, or doesn’t respond to styling, occasional clarification can help—followed by conditioner or a mask. If your scalp feels persistently irritated, consider professional advice.

What should I ask for in the salon if I want modern 80s volume?
Ask for curl-friendly shaping that builds lift at the crown and removes weight internally without thinning the perimeter too much. Bring reference photos and discuss how you actually style at home.